Friday 7th
6.15 pm flight to Montreal arrive about 8pm local time. Quick transfer through immigration. Taxi to Hotel Bonaparte in old Montreal. Very helpful champagne and maps from lobby welcome. Noisy meal at Scarlet. Bed by midnight
Saturday 8th
Very gracious breakfast served in hotel. Louise 14 th meets present day. Walking tour in the rain all around old Montreal cathedral. Sailors church. Ramezay museum then old port then Musee de Beaux Art. Canadian art. Christ church cathedral Protestant for a violin and piano concert. Marie Reine du monde cathedral. Walked 20000 steps. Meal at Les Pyrenees. Very good eggplant starter and slow cooked lamb for main. Wandered back via quaint coffee and supplies shop bought fruit and beer and wine
Sunday 9th
Walked to metro and took the orange line a few stops north to Laurier where we had a walk among the houses with characteristic outside staircases. Nice little cafes along Av Laurier. Took Bixi bikes south to Parc La Fontaine and to the boulevards St Laurent via parc st Louise. We
Walked up St Laurent then left Rue Rachel bike again up Mont royal to top and view then down the road and back to Rue Aylmer and walked to McGill metro. On Green line east to Viau corner of Olympic Park. Up the sloping tower largest in the world -good views. Walked to Pie 1X metro back to Lionel-Groulz. Walked to the wonderful Marche Atwater - Art Deco building amazing fresh produce. Had a coffee and nata - custard tart and then picked up bikes to ride back into town along the atttractive Lachine Canal to the old port. Went up the modern tower of the archeological museum near the customs house to see a great view of the city.
Back to hotel for bath and sleep. Holder restaurant for dinner. Slightly formulaic but good - like Delaney's in London.
Monday 10th
Thanksgiving day in Canada. 2nd Monday in Oct always since 1957
No water in hotel this morning! Glad I bathed yesterday evening!
Nice brekka despite! Taxi to car hire. Then on route 10 o the Eastern Townships beautiful autumn colours. Wine tasting at Leon Courville near Lac Brome.lotsof new different grapes bought a red and an ice. Coffee at star cafe in Knowledge. Lotsof quaint shoppees. Beautiful lake with wave surfer. Then to St Benoit du Lac Abbey. Huge crowds- idyllic setting modern building busy shop and car park. On to Magog for a walk along high street - old Victorian architecture and to huge Lake which spans the US border. Then 200 km spin across the region vast farms and silos and quaint shape barns and stunning autumnal colours up and down the vast hillsides. Detour because of a derailed truck so arrived about 6.30 in old Quebec City. Staying in Chateau Fleur de Lys hotel right in centre. No cars old buildings- the oldest in N America. Quirky hotel our room 60 s theme with light fittings and furniture to match. Walk around old town then to Le Continental for classic French steak dinner and French wine.
Tuesday 11th
Brekka at base. Nice croissant in easy chairs with views over to the Frontenac. Fab weather. Walked to board walk in front of Frontenac then along and up to Citadel - Vauban design. Took the tour and learned about the history and the 22 nd regiment famous for bravery. Formed in first WW only Canadian French speaking reg. Good tour guide noon day canon fires. Walk around town and down to old town then on ferry to Levi's. Came back immediately and walked to train station and around went to chateau Frontenac for late afternoon drink and cheese. Very pleasant. Home for r and r then out to lower town for a rabbit inspired menuè. Rabbit kidney and liver for me and cassoulet with rabbit too! On y va!
Wednesday 12th
Brekka boost then walk down to see the old market down near the port and rail station - lots and lots of apples plus loads of other produce. Very picturesque. Hired bikes and rode to the Montmorency falls a 25 km round trip. Along the huge river with views of Ile d'Orleans and back to Q. Cable car to top of falls. Quick coffee then walk up to falls which are 30 m deeper than Niagara but much smaller volume. Walked over falls and back down the other side with great views of falls and Q in distance. Back to Q and biked along the St Giles river to downtown outside the city walls. Grande Allen and the plains of Abraham - good views of river. Museum of Fine Arts - great visit to the new gallery and the older wing inside the old prison. Enjoyed the Inuit sculptures and the modern Quebec artists Riopelle - dawbs style, Pellan- surrealist, Lemieux- more traditional, bizarre installation the flux and the puddle David Altmejd. Altogether a great visit with coffee and cake as well and super views across the river.
Cycled down Cartier Rue - art feel with cafes then down St Jean with lots of cafes and restaurants and oldest shop in N America.
Took bikes back and walked along Rue St Paul - art gallery street. Back to the oldest square and wandered back up hill and via the lovely Dufferin terrace with super evening light on the autumnal trees.
Nice hotel lady helped us book an Italian restaurant for dinner at 8.30pm.
Thursday 13th
Onward to the Laurentians today. Left with a coffee and pastry for the road from Cartier Street. Down highway 40 towards Trois Rivieres. Parked by the cathedral and looked in to see a grand nave with wonderful detailed stain glass by talented Canadian. Walked to downtown and then to the key side on the St Lawrence very quiet in the rain. Visited the musee d'ursulines - this is where the order of nuns started in the 1600s and they founded schools throughout Canada. They continue with schools but now since 1960 they are no longer a cloistered order and do not recruit. There are some 40 nuns left with average age 86! Beautiful chapel with separate 'choir' for the nuns who were not allowed to mix with the students!
Coffee and snack for the road and onward to Val David - our destination today close to M Tremblant. Beautiful hilly winding roads past lakes and some golf courses - twice! When we let google do the map reading without paying enough attention! Had a walk around Rawdon to see the river and pretty colours of the trees. Arrived to our quaint B and B at about 4 pm - our room overlooks the river with our own lounge area and outside deck for sun bathing!, haha a bit nippy for that! A walk to the local microbrewery seemed appropriate and Stu sampled some local beers - of course. Popped into some aerie type shops along the way - do love an art gallery - shame can't buy. Back via supermarket to sip a red and some veggies and dip in our lounge before heading out to the local "gastro pub" for some poutine gastronomique and a bison burger and some local beer and cider. Very satisfied.
Friday 14th
Woke to sun and river hum outside our window. Very different breakfast served in the downstairs area our host was the cook for homemade muesli and yoghurt followed by baked Parmesan and egg in a bread shell very inventive. Headed towards Mont Tremblant. Fab colours around every lake . Parked and walked through the Disney style village to the gondola for a high rise trip to the top of Mont Tremblant. Only 867m high! But 3 deg C at top and wind but sun shining and amazing views of the golden mountains. Walked to the highest view point with views 360 deg. And to Lac Tremblant- very pretty. Coffee then down the mountain and onward cross country to Ottawa. Just a one stop for coffee and snack on the way. Arrived Ottawa in golden evening sunshine - straight to hotel Elgin. Then walk around to the canal a wondrous Victorian engineering project. And to river and views To cathedral and then the shopping malls, Nordstrom ! Via the Byward which is the buzz area with the Marche and the bars. Bought some local red - quite good! Booked for good fish restaurant and just supping the red we bought which is OK! Off to dine now! Whalebone- meal good not stunning but cauliflower side was a whow
Sat 15th
Buffet brekka then off to Ottawa bike hire by the canal. Great bike trip in beautiful sunshine along canal via falls then along river to the Ottawa river - more falls. Met a group of local cyclists out for a ride. Stopped at museum of history for a good dive into origins of the First Nations peoples. Stunning totem hall but mediocre coffee shop - how shallow🙄. Back across bridge to return bikes then walk to Market in Byward for coffee at the Teaparty shop. Then to cinema to see Bridget Jones Baby a bot out of town at a Mall. So managed some Walmart shopping before the show. Film was a hoot really funny. Meal at Riviera newly opened restaurant was fantastic! We were at chefs table at the bar. So enjoyable to watch the chefs at work and an amazing meal - great owner chat with recs for tomorrow night and for Toronto
Sun 16th
Buffet brekka then walk to House of Parliament for the excellent free tour. Lots of security but then a relaxed tour through the Commons - green. The Senate - red and the huge rotunda library which survived the fire of the early 1900s Went up the Peace tower for views then saw the eternal flame for the confederation of 9 states. Coffee at Bridgehead then to the National art gallery which is an amazing modern building- with pleasant indoor courtyards. Walked out through china town and little Italy for a coffe stop at the Happy Goat then another mile to early dinner at Supply and Demand. As recommended by previous night restaurant. Dined at bar - good food - loved the beets- and local Ontario fizz. Caught efficient Uber back to hotel
Mon 17th
(Writing this on Tues evening as we sip a glass by the harbour front at Toronto on Lake Ontario watching sail boats drift by as the sun sets.) Super early start. Brekka at 6.30 - the usual fruit and French toast and bacon. Left Ottawa by 7.15 and headed south towards Toronto stopping in Kingston - the once capital of Canada back in the day. Beautiful lakeside situation with some dignified 19th C public buildings. Had a walk and a coffee at Sipps on the town square. Traveled on to Niagara on the Lake passing by Toronto which was bathed in fog! Through the manicured vineyards of Niagara- stopped for a good tasting at Konzelmamn the only vineyard actually on to the Lake - liked their light white called Vinland. Stuart liked their merlot and we loved their ice wine. So all three were bought and then more reds at Strewn. Arrived in sweaty sunshine at the Angel Inn in cute NOTL where we shed some clothes - temps 26 deg- and went walking to see the mighty Niagara river with Fort St George across the water in USA. Lots of cute old clapperboard houses. Saw a record of crossings of Lake Ontario by swimming individuals only about 2 per year its 45 km or more depends on the crossing taken. Back to ye olde English Inn for dinner - a modest meatloaf Wellington and peanut butter cheesecake! Tiny ancient bed and bedroom obviously historical! Started working on my schedule for the conference as the app had become available.
Tues 18th
More leisurely start and woke to clear blue skies which was a joy for our trip to Niagara Falls today. Stopped by the recommended Willow bakery a well known local hang out. Superb home made bakes. Stu had cheese bagel I had blueberry scone with white chocolate:). Beautiful drive along the Niagara Falls parkway with super views of the river. Arrived Niagara at about 10 and parked easily for 10 dollars a short walk away by the tall skylon building. What a view as we emerged from the hillside walk to see the American Falls in front of us with the Canadian fall to our right so much more impressive. Walked to the boat ticket office and queued a while to get on boat with our pink ponchos feeling sticky in the humid heat of the day. Fantastic boat trip with soaking spray and amazing views of the torrents plunging. All very exhilarating! The Hornblower trip is great but Maid of the Mist USA style looks fine too. Saw loads of intrepid tourists bracing the waterfall edge. Back on dry land and we walked the length of the boulevard getting wonderful views of both falls. Not to busy. Very relaxing in the sunshine. Onward via a coffee to Toronto. Arrived about 4 pm and returned the car and checked into the intercontinental just a whisker away from the CNN tower. Lovely evening sunshine took a walk to the Amsterdam brew house and found a lakeside table ... which is where we came in! Local bluejays v Indians (Cleveland) is on the tv. So lots of audio background to our quiet drink! Walked to The Chase for dinner. An incredibly warm evening. By that time the stadium was emptying and there were thousands of blue clad fans making their ways home but all orderly - just a sea of team blue jays. Meal was fish- fine but not stunning. Walked back looking for dessert instead found live guitar and a drink at the Shangri La hotel. Very pleasant.
Wed 19th
First stop coffee and bagel shared at 2nd Cup just near hotel. A crystal clear day so up the CN tower for a view. What a magnificent piece of engineering. Whizzed up the outside lifts to the top of the tallest structure in the world - until 2012 ? - when Bhurj took top spot. Still stunning with views and glass floor to ogle at. Down and walk to water front to bike hire then change and off we go along great bike ways to see China town and Kensington Market - great coffee shop and Stu bought a bag- and Toronto university. Then back downtown to waterfront and onto Saint Lawrence Market and then Distillery district - both old parts of town. Missed the ferry at 2pm so took a water taxi across to the islands. What a treat - the ride and the arrival and ride around perfect parkland with views across to T but also across to the Lake looks like a sea with pristine beaches and no people! Little ramshackle dwellings along tiny pathways. Rode the whole area seeing the light house and airport and marina where we stopped for a drink with views across the harbour . The CN is a beautiful feature on all landscapes. Back to catch the 5 pm ferry then took bikes back and walked to hotel for a rest and shower. Off out to go to Parcea again breaching the sea of Blue jay supporters - yet another game - lost the series I think:(. Great meal at Parcea - fried bread, aubergine with cheese, pizza, veal tenderloin with sweetbreads and marrow jelly. All scrumptious and also a very good cocktail. Walked back via 'sweet Jesus' for a yummie icecream sundae. Wall to wall sunshine today.
Thurs 20th
Rainy walk to Union station nearby and took line north to DuPont where we walked to the Casa Lima- a 1910 period castle - the biggest private home ever built in Canada. Sir Robert Pellet built it extravagantly 98 rooms. 50 bathrooms. 40 phones. Lost his fortune 10 years later and had to sell all died in penury in 1939. He was a philanthropist. Had a coffee and brekka there then back on metro to go to the Royal Ontario museum. Staggering dinosaur exhibition and more on the First Nation people. Great building with modern extension. Coffee there and then walk via posh shopping area of Blood on Bay then metro to the Art museum for an hour of Canadian art with some big video and light installations. Onward to the Easton centre a huge modern shopping centre. Quick look at Uniqlo _ new - and the Hudson Bay Company before ace steak at the Keg steakhouse. Very crushed and noisy at the bar at 6 pm but then relaxing in the dining area. Very clubbable experience with good service and food. Walked back to hotel by 8 pm
Fri 21st
Brekka in hotel then caught free shuttle to Billy Bishop downtown airport which connects via underground walkway to the island airport. Very easy check in and comfy seats and free snacks in this tiny airport. Flight to Chicago. 2 hours small propeller plane. Very quick transfer through us immigration. No queue. Then tap in for the train to downtown. All so easy!! It's 3 pm local time so need to check in to conference now! Got off at our stop on the 'loop' which is the overhead railway seen so often in films and tv including ER. Found our apartment block - the Fortrelli Tower - so Hollywood meets Art Deco all the original lifts and lights from the period -have to check the date of the building. We are in Downtown. Opposite Macy s and in Theatre area. Found our studio on 19th floor. Very good functional and enough space. Caught Metra train at Millenium station only 2 min walk from block south to McCormick Place where the convention centre is. Only a 7 min ride. Registered for meeting then back to Downtown to go to concert at the Chicago Symphony Theatre to hear the Cuban Buena vista star Ouara Portomondo and band. Superb jazz/ Cuban band with clarinetist and violinist and she is a diva of 85 years old! Powerful. Meal beforehand at 7 Lions. Good steakhouse. I had porkchop and we had brownie for dessert. Short walk home after concert.
Sat 22nd
Early start. Great weather! Train at 7.15. Coffee and shared bagel at underground Starbucks. Train is a classic double decker. Short walk into convention centre which is HUGE. Big opener with Michael Porter THE management guru on value based health care. Stu and I visited the international lounge for coffee first thing. Stu went back to do our washing while I spent the day at lectures. Busy tweeting as well! Met up with Steph Caitlin again like last year. Stu came back at 5 for the drinks reception. Had some good fizz at one of the exhibitors. Then back on train to downtown and had meal at The Kitchen bistro on the north bank of the river. I had sturgeon! A dense white fish - good! Went to musical Wonderful Town at the Goodman. Why o why o did we leave Ohio!, by Leonard Bernstein. Really fun good script. Great vibe. Especially as the Cubs won. That's the baseball team who haven't won for years. I think they are through to the semis.
Sun 23rd
Another early start and great warm weather. Caught the 7 am train for first lecture. Then lectures through to 12. Back to downtown to go to ballet Joffrey!, Romeo and Juliet. At the Roosevelt Uni Auditorium. Fantastic building and ballet was stratospheric. Sandwich beforehand at Panera. After ballet walked north in the sunshine through the park to the giant bean - very impressive with super photo opportunities. Walked north again to river to take the Architecture boat trip - great 90 minute ride through the giant towers as the sun set and the light came on. Under 23 bridges - all cantilevered to open if necessary. Brilliant trip. Great guide. Walked up to Michigan avenue north. The magnificent mile. To the Hancock centre. Up the lift to 94 th floor for a cocktail at height. Clear night so good views all round. Then on to a deep dish pizza Due. Friendly service. Huge portions and margarita huge! Lovely Food. Totally stuffed now!
Mon 24th
Woke up still feeling full! Headed in via Peets coffee for lecture at 8 am. Chestnut on road to professionalism. I knew him in the 80s! When I was with Sol Schnider. Good talk. Take home message. Talk - really engage with patients and be kind! Then lecture on geriatric pharmacology and anaesthesia then paediatric errors what we can learn. Good day. Then to Frank lloyd Wright house and tour of Uni of Chicago then back to get tickets at Harris theatre. Tiks@6 deal 10 dollars each for near front row. Now in Tavern on Park for dinner. House filet mignonette was superb with tuna sliced for starter while Stu had curry cauliflower followed by sirloin strip. The apple and blueberry bread pudding was the size of a small bus! We took it home in a doggy bag. Concert was great in a massive modern theatre all subterranean beneath Millenium park. Concert was Handels Alexander's Feast plus a harp concerto both were gorgeous with excellent soloists and choir and orchestra- real treat.
Tuesday 25th
Up early again to catch the 7 am train via Peets coffee shop. Good first session on hot topics in Paediatric anaesthesia. Then a lecture on paediatric anaesthetic handovers- lots of good stuff pertaining to ch checklists and applicable to LocSSIPs. Sam Wald good speaker. At 11 the John Severinghaus lecture and he was in the audience! Lecture by Dan Sessler regarding research and its relevance and applicability to clinical management. And the caution to be exercised re the p value! Use 0.003 for significance not 0.05. Then snack lunch at the international lounge. Last lecture developing leaders - tips from Fortune 500 companies - basically need staff engagement- Sam Wald slides were good - need to get. Headed off back to change clothes to go cycling. Hired bikes from near Harris Theatre and headed north along Lakeside cycle way with great views of downtown. Stopped for more pickies at Navy Pier then onward to Golden Beach then headed west to Wrigley Field home of the baseball Cubs. Lots of flags as they are playing in the World Series this week away at the Cleveland Indians. Back via Astor street with many old architecturally significant houses then back to downtown and quick shower before going on red line north from Lake to North/Claybourn. Very busy in rush hour! Walked to REI store for quick look. Then dinner at Italian Balena. Very good charred lettuce and avocado and poached egg salad followed by succulent chicken while Stu had pizza - all excellent. Then across the road to Steppenwolf theatre to see 'Visiting Edna' by David Rabe a world premiere production. About mother / son relationships and death - cancer played by a character as was the television! Absorbing - enjoyed the mother character particularly dealing with loneliness repeated stories of times gone by. Money worries etc. Home by train by 10.30. Diary write up with a glass of fizz. Time to pack and leave Chicago. Must come back. It's a wonderful city.
Wed 26th
Headed out for a last Peets Coffee then Uber to airport to pick up rental. Pouring rain but easy Uber very pleasant driver. Drove 2 hours NW of Chicago with coffee at Norwegian bakery in Stougnton. Then to Lake Kegonsa to stay in a beautiful lakeside cottage Steven and Joanne showed up soon after. Big catch up! Then into Madison to look around and reminisce. At The Old Fashioned for tradition Wisconsin beers and cheese.back to our cottage. For dinner cooked by Joanne delicious lasagne and chocolate torte.
Thurs 27th
Out to Spring Green to see Frank Lloyd Wright birthplace. Took about an hour through rolling prairie country. A fascinating 2 hour tour round and into this amazing house where FLW lived with his many different wives! Joanne bought me the book of his life. then onto Spring Green General Store for lunch a cute deli in a blue wood panelled barn affair. I bought a dress. We had soup and salad. Back to Madison to cycle shop Machinery Row and a walk along the lake front. One of the 2 big lakes- Minona. Saw masses of huge university buildings. Back to Crown Point for r and r then back to Madison's Brinks Lounge for Madison Jazz Orchestra- big band sound but with quirky unusual repertoire. Drinks and nachos. Ended at 10. Chatted till late.
Friday 28th
Beautiful day on the lake. Packed and loaded the cars. Into Madison for brunch at The Old Fashioned for local walleye fish delicious. The bye byes to Joey and Stephen. Quick trip to REI and JC Penny. Then via Staunton for coffee and doughnut home made at the Norwegian bakery. On the road to OHare in beautiful afternoon sunshine.
Dunwich Dynamo 2015
Tick. Job done.
Wanted to do this for a few years, now the opportunity with no real work on Monday. But didn't approach it right - not on bike for weeks since the London Revolution, big parties the weekend before, up to Norfolk for Patrick's 60th meal on Thursday then up at 5am to drive back, take Granny & Nigel to Birmingham on the trains on Saturday, got back at 5:45 and grabbed bike and rushed down to catch 6 something train back into London. Multiple met line train re-assignments, so finally got off at Moorgate to find my way to London Fields. Got lost but there were enough likely looking bikers to follow, and met Lulu & Char at 7:45pm. Massive crowds.
We decided to head off straight away which meant a mind numbing slow bike ride with '00s navigating buses and car queues. It opened up on the straight road through Epping Forest and went smoothly after that. Darkness fell around 10pm (there was almost a full moon). Weather good but because sweated felt cold at the stops.
Didn't hit any wall or fall asleep, but we stopped every 20 miles to refuel (own supplies plus pop up cafe coffee and tea). Roads good condition and very little traffic. Saw Lizzie and her parents at Finchingfield, bizarre having just seen her at the party last week. Started to see light around 3am, switched off headlight 4pm.
Arrived Dunwich 6:30.
Crashed on beach, queued for tickets for coach, to put bikes on transport, for a bacon roll and beer, to get onto coach. Well, actually Lulu did most of the queuing for me.
Slept on coach back to Surrey Quays. Cycled to Aldgate and caught various Met Line trains back to CW by 3pm. Hot tub!
Phew. A big night and day. Longest single ride I have done - 113miles, average speed 13.6mph.
But I don't think I'll do it again!
Wanted to do this for a few years, now the opportunity with no real work on Monday. But didn't approach it right - not on bike for weeks since the London Revolution, big parties the weekend before, up to Norfolk for Patrick's 60th meal on Thursday then up at 5am to drive back, take Granny & Nigel to Birmingham on the trains on Saturday, got back at 5:45 and grabbed bike and rushed down to catch 6 something train back into London. Multiple met line train re-assignments, so finally got off at Moorgate to find my way to London Fields. Got lost but there were enough likely looking bikers to follow, and met Lulu & Char at 7:45pm. Massive crowds.
We decided to head off straight away which meant a mind numbing slow bike ride with '00s navigating buses and car queues. It opened up on the straight road through Epping Forest and went smoothly after that. Darkness fell around 10pm (there was almost a full moon). Weather good but because sweated felt cold at the stops.
Didn't hit any wall or fall asleep, but we stopped every 20 miles to refuel (own supplies plus pop up cafe coffee and tea). Roads good condition and very little traffic. Saw Lizzie and her parents at Finchingfield, bizarre having just seen her at the party last week. Started to see light around 3am, switched off headlight 4pm.
Arrived Dunwich 6:30.
Crashed on beach, queued for tickets for coach, to put bikes on transport, for a bacon roll and beer, to get onto coach. Well, actually Lulu did most of the queuing for me.
Slept on coach back to Surrey Quays. Cycled to Aldgate and caught various Met Line trains back to CW by 3pm. Hot tub!
Phew. A big night and day. Longest single ride I have done - 113miles, average speed 13.6mph.
But I don't think I'll do it again!
Savannah Hypothesis: Most liked landscape painting
In an interview, professor of philosophy of art, Denis Dutton, theorized that our love of art, particularly the tradition of landscape painting, is hard wired into our brain and Psyche. Professor Dutton offers his theory of the ‘Savannah hypothesis’ as follows:
” In the early 1990s a couple of Russian expatriate artists named Komar and Melamid in New York got some money from the Nation Foundation in order to find out what people’s tastes were around the world. So they did some actually serious scientific polling in ten countries (they ended up actually doing more than ten but the original publication list was ten countries) to find out what their favourite subject matter for painting was, what their favourite colour was, if a painting told a story what kind of story they would like it to tell, if they liked abstract art or if they liked representative art and so on. And they did this in the Ukraine, Denmark, France, Holland I think, the US, Kenya, China, Iceland, Turkey…”
What they discovered was :
” the overwhelming favourite of all the other countries which was that they liked landscapes. They like landscapes not only that you would expect from, let’s say, Americans, but they liked landscapes where you had people…let’s say, in Kenya, for example, where they didn’t have the kind of landscapes in question, those were the kind of landscapes they kept choosing. In other words, what everybody in the world seems to like is a kind of standard calendar landscape. And we call it a ‘calendar landscape’ because in fact it exists in calendars across the world.
It includes open spaces with lower mown grasses, thickets of bushes, maybe groupings of trees, copses of trees, the presence of water or water indirectly shown, maybe in the distance, an unimpeded view of the horizon somewhere, the presence of animals, and especially what people seemed to like is some kind of a path. It could be a river bank but often it’s a path or a way which you could take to walk into the distance to go over those last hills to see what’s on the other side. “
Professor Dutton went on to say:
“But there’s another way to look at it and that’s the Savannah Hypothesis. That is to say that the reason that people all over the world gravitate toward this same kind of landscape is that this is the landscape where we evolved, this was the most advantageous landscape for human beings in the Pleistocene, in the savannahs where we came into being as modern human beings, and that’s why you continue to find it. You’d find all sorts of different interests in different kinds of landscapes around the world. But some interesting experiments have been done with children showing that when you take the standard 8-year-old in Europe or Australia or South America or Africa they will tend to choose a landscape which has the savannah features. That is to say it has trees that fork near the ground (that’s interesting; trees that fork near the ground are popular), undulating spaces, open areas where you can hide and where game might hide. It seems to be some kind of an atavism. “
The Most Wanted Paintings, September 5, 1995. A project by Komar + Melamid commissioned by Dia Art Foundation. Courtesy of La Panacée.
Forty-four percent of Americans prefer the color blue. Sixty-four percent like traditional art more than modern. Eighty-eight percent prefer pictures that show outdoor scenes, in which wild animals such as deer are preferable domestic cats by twenty-four percentage points. Humans should be historical figures or ordinary people, depicted fully clothed. (Only three percent of Americans admit to preferring nudes.) And the ideal dimensions of a painting? The size of a dishwasher or a nineteen inch television.
” In the early 1990s a couple of Russian expatriate artists named Komar and Melamid in New York got some money from the Nation Foundation in order to find out what people’s tastes were around the world. So they did some actually serious scientific polling in ten countries (they ended up actually doing more than ten but the original publication list was ten countries) to find out what their favourite subject matter for painting was, what their favourite colour was, if a painting told a story what kind of story they would like it to tell, if they liked abstract art or if they liked representative art and so on. And they did this in the Ukraine, Denmark, France, Holland I think, the US, Kenya, China, Iceland, Turkey…”
What they discovered was :
” the overwhelming favourite of all the other countries which was that they liked landscapes. They like landscapes not only that you would expect from, let’s say, Americans, but they liked landscapes where you had people…let’s say, in Kenya, for example, where they didn’t have the kind of landscapes in question, those were the kind of landscapes they kept choosing. In other words, what everybody in the world seems to like is a kind of standard calendar landscape. And we call it a ‘calendar landscape’ because in fact it exists in calendars across the world.
It includes open spaces with lower mown grasses, thickets of bushes, maybe groupings of trees, copses of trees, the presence of water or water indirectly shown, maybe in the distance, an unimpeded view of the horizon somewhere, the presence of animals, and especially what people seemed to like is some kind of a path. It could be a river bank but often it’s a path or a way which you could take to walk into the distance to go over those last hills to see what’s on the other side. “
Professor Dutton went on to say:
“But there’s another way to look at it and that’s the Savannah Hypothesis. That is to say that the reason that people all over the world gravitate toward this same kind of landscape is that this is the landscape where we evolved, this was the most advantageous landscape for human beings in the Pleistocene, in the savannahs where we came into being as modern human beings, and that’s why you continue to find it. You’d find all sorts of different interests in different kinds of landscapes around the world. But some interesting experiments have been done with children showing that when you take the standard 8-year-old in Europe or Australia or South America or Africa they will tend to choose a landscape which has the savannah features. That is to say it has trees that fork near the ground (that’s interesting; trees that fork near the ground are popular), undulating spaces, open areas where you can hide and where game might hide. It seems to be some kind of an atavism. “
The Most Wanted Paintings, September 5, 1995. A project by Komar + Melamid commissioned by Dia Art Foundation. Courtesy of La Panacée.
Forty-four percent of Americans prefer the color blue. Sixty-four percent like traditional art more than modern. Eighty-eight percent prefer pictures that show outdoor scenes, in which wild animals such as deer are preferable domestic cats by twenty-four percentage points. Humans should be historical figures or ordinary people, depicted fully clothed. (Only three percent of Americans admit to preferring nudes.) And the ideal dimensions of a painting? The size of a dishwasher or a nineteen inch television.
London Revolution by an OMIL and his daughter - May 16/17
We were very lucky with the weather, especially after the continuous rain in Thursday and today. The weekend was dry and mostly sunny. The organisation was excellent - support, routes, signage, pit stops, Ascot camping, showers, evening meal and breakfast. My knees suffered on the hills, but was fine on the flats, whereas Lulu steamed steadily up the hills, and we kept together pretty much all the time.
Highlight view has to be cresting over Combe & Staple Lane from Shere onto the edge of the North Downs and seeing a panorama from the City of London to Windsor Castle
Here's the stats:
Day 1 - 101 miles, moving time, 8:19hrs, avg 12.1mph
Day 2 - 89 miles, moving time 7:18hrs, avg 12mph
We made it!
Tuscany - Chain Gang 5-11 Oct
240.5km
+4422/-4217m
max grade 15%
+4422/-4217m
max grade 15%
Sat 4th to S.Gimignano
> Taxi to LHR at 6.25. Flight to Pisa on time at 8.50. Met with Hudgells Crows Redmans and Clayton. Nice flight with views of Matterhorn. Arrived 12 gorgeous sunshine . Van and car to first stop S.Gimgnano. Amazing towers which can be seen for miles beautiful medieval town. We were in hotel in main square. The Cisterna. High ceiling room with beams and splendid views across the Tuscan hills. Lunch outside in the square - first aperol spritzer of the trip - sunshine in a glass. Visited the church - frescos 15thC on every wall notable Annunciation by Fillipi. Up the tower for stunning views over town and country. The 14thC towers were built by families at the time. 15 remain used to be many more. Back to hotel for drink in square and Scobles arrived from Florence at about 5pm with Paul Rivera and wife Lilian - just with us for the evening. Also met Natalie from Oz who was an extra to the group.
> Another walk around just the 2 of us an excellent gelato coconut and choc with cherries and a visit to the wine museum. Dinner in hotel. Lovely antipasti then pasta and grilled veg. Local white Vernaccia was fruity and delicious.. Bed at 10pm
> Sun 5th 42km S. Gimignano to Panzano
> Brekka lots of choice and good coffee and great views over Tuscany. 8.30am. Market in main square - time for a mouch around while Bernard got the bikes fitted. Lots of merry banter around the bikes down a quaint alley at the back of hotel. Hot sunshine. Bought a bag for mum and a belt for Nigel. Set off eventually at 11.30 wonderful downs and taxing ups before lunch with epic view at Barberino - ancient walled hill top town. Lunch of ravioli handmade cheese and spinach and aberol spritzer on a terrace overlooking vineyards and hills. Quick look in church to see the 13thC preserved body of the bishop died 1295. After noon cycle was again stunningly beautiful with the lowering sun creating wonderful recessions - hill on hill on hill into the distance. Long final climb but steady gradient and we all made it to the gelato at the top on the left at Panzano di Chianti. Melon flavour interesting. A hard day 42 Km. Jane was recovering from a cold and found it tough going. Hotel right nearby the gelato shop - wheeled bikes around to the back. Rooms spacious with views into the square and to the hills. Great hot shower and washed bike pants and rung out with towel a la LEJOG technique. Down to dinner at 7.30 - semi-drunk German landlord was slightly off putting! Aberol spritzers not up to standard but a good meal of pasta followed by beef escalope wines local Greve white and a nice chianti - and we are in Chianti - it's not just a red wine it's a region! Bed at 10pm.
> Mon 6th 40km Panzano to Devoli near Vagliglia
> Good brekka in a room with lovely views of vista. Depart at 9.30 main group to Greve via bikes and amazing scenery sunshine and dirt tracks and church at the top of the hill. Smaller group via taxi. All well met in Greve and to the amazing wine chianti experience with cards in slots to gain wine tasting experience of chianti Classico and reservas and Montepulciano etc etc very good and then coffee an depart via separate ways. A long but pleasant haul by bike back to Panzano for pizza in the square then off we go to Radda. Not too bad but a long haul the last bit. Coffee and refresh in Radda then onwards to Vagliglia. Stopped En route to watch grapes in the de stalker machine and onwards into wine processing. Long hill on gravel but wonderful evening sunshine then from Ailoi down to Devoli vineyard and wonderful hotel for swim and drinks and amazing meal around a beautiful table Superb meal and wines. Bernard u did us proud
> Tues 7th 40km Devoli to Siena
> Breakfast under a persimmon tree looking across the Tuscan vineyards. Great choice of fruits, yog , egg, bacon, croissant etc though getting a cup of tea was a challenge for David - the loose leaves were a problem! Had a wander around the estate to see the vineyards and another idyllic swimming pool set high over the landscape. At 10 am there was a wine tasting and tour of the cellars and winemaking facility. 5 wines to try all Dievelo - rose(same grape but only 12 hours fermentation with the grapes compared with 15 days for the reds); chianti Classico and 3 more reds all Sangiovese grape, one 100%,one 80% with Merlot and petit Verdot, one a reserva which has been aged in oak barika (small barrel) for 2 years rather than 1 yr and a top of the range aged for 4 yrs. A very good tour by a guy with a dry sense of humour and just the right amount of info. Back on bikes at 11am. A steep haul up out of the valley along a white road (gravel) 'Bianca strada') to Vagliagli then up again to a viewpoint of Siena and a geocache which Natalie found hidden in a war monument. Beautiful ride up and then down a long long Bianca strada with fabulous views and on to coffee at Querciagrosso. More up and down across a railway - saw a train pass- then a turn off along a difficult path with stones and grass up to the amazing hilltop walled hamlet of Monteriggioni where we had a delicious lunch outside in the sunshine with views of castle walls and towers. Tried the local Tuscan soup - quite tasty- and a cool glass of white wine followed by delicious gelato coconut and chocolate. Onwards to Siena in the afternoon with a lot of up along quite busy road. Wendy Jane and Bernard were at the back and we waited at the top. They had stopped to see a wild bore and baby.......... Allegedly ! Through very busy traffic into Siena a car almost sliced me as it cut across my path. We entered the city wall through a big ancient red brick gate then through narrow pedestrian street with high brown tenements we annoyed many walkers as we wobbled between them at last arriving at the impressive shell shaped campo - a vast open paved area sloping in on all sides down to palazzo with enormously high tower. We peddled across and parked bikes and celebrated our arrival with aperol spritzers and beers. The lovely waiter kept bringing us delicious pizzas to go with our drinks. Another km of narrow streets brought us to the rose gate out of the city and just beyond past the ospedale psycologe was our hotel S Caterina. Our room was unusual with a mezzanine bed space in the roof with a tiny metal staircase up to it. Showered and changed then a walk back to the campo for a vast meal of 5 courses. Ercole was our host with delightful descriptions of our menu and wines to match- Vernaccia white then rose then chianti. The restaurant was called Guidoriccio. Tomato/bread porridge starter then antipasti then 2 courses of pasta - delicious veggie lasagne then tasty gnocchi - lastly beef cooked al sangua with rosemary and sage. Very full! Walk back to hotel for a good sleep.
> Wed 9th 43.5km Siena to Asciono
> Gentle start with brekka at 8.30 in a room looking out onto garden patio with wonderful views of the Tuscan hills surrounding Siena. Much laughter at brekka about the 'small' meal the night before. We set off for the Duomo at 9.30 cycling through the Puerto Romana in the SE of the city to the Campo then across that walking the bikes and onward to the Duomo for entry at 10.30. The outside of the duomo is a vision of whites and pink with rich painting and ornate statuary. The tower is white and dark green striped and a hint of the huge dome roof can be seen from the Piazza. Huge arched build attached at the right is where a much bigger church was started but never completed. This cathedral was built from 14thC and stopped building because of lack of workers during the Black Death pandemic. Going inside the effect is stunning with a consistency of design - high columns in white and black stripe soaring up to the vaulted ceiling with the wonderful starry dome above the altar. But the marvel is the marble inlaid floor depicting all manner of battles and animals in amazing detail and with wonderful geometric borders; the small library was delightful with frescoes in brilliant colours and illuminated manuscripts open below. A Donatello bronze of John the B was interesting and the hex pulpit was impressive and huge. It got very busy as the crowds trekked in we left by 11.30 out of the southern gate St Marco again through narrow streets dodging pedestrians. A bit of traffic before turning off onto a beautiful rolling smooth empty road with stunning views of sandy coloured fields and hilltop villas. Views back to Siena every km or so. Coffee stop at villa Di Corsano and onward again similar vistas to lunch with a hill at Caffe Briccola in Monteroni - delicious pesto gnocchi and aubergine parmigiana and a white wine. In the pm we found a strada Bianca with some tough ups and downs through amazing hills and entering Les Cretes with sharp slippages of land giving craggy edges to the hills. We lost John who had a puncture so Bernie went back to attend while Stu became leader up some very steep and difficult gravelly undulations. Saw sheep being tended by sheep dogs of a brilliant white - yelping as we passed -one lay with just it's head peaking out of the grass - then sprang up as we passed defending the sheep. Arrived at a smooth road at last with a hill up into Asciono along the Main Street never any pavements to th square for a aperol then to the hotel up again to clean white rooms more basic but fine. Evening meal was surreal with the usual 5 courses but accompanied by karioki which Patrick and Bernie and David and Malcolm joined in. Encouraged by Natalie dancing . She then fell prostrate with left hip pain! A most bizarre evening but good food and great fun and the Brunello 2007 at 24 euro was a bargain.
> Thurs 10th 38km Asciono to Montalcino
> Brekka across the road was good not great but muesli and yoghurt and cake with choc spread and grapes was plenty! Set off out of Asciono up hill with wonderful views a long climb to the abbey Monte Olivete Maggiore set amongst steep wooded hills. Massive red brick buildings almost hidden. We parked and walked down precipitous brick path across a draw bridge with statue of Mary above . Abbey church baroque while abbey monastery where there are still 30 monks in white habits was medieval with library and refectory in use still. The cloisters with frescoes of the life of St Bernardino from the 6th C were the main attraction. Amazing detail and everyday vignettes as well as scenes of battle, gore and miracles. The frescoes were painted by 2 artists Sodomo and ..... The former made critical comments of the monks' poor remuneration for his artwork - example 'short-armed' monks with no visible hands in some scenes. An hour with art then back up to coffee shop set midst the trees and greenery very pretty Che Bella! But P not feeling well today. Cycled an amazing descent to lunch at Buon Convento a delightful walled town to Osteria with arched and brick interior. Great menu turistico for 15 euro. Soup and cold meats and a macchiato. Cycled onwards and upwards to vineyard Vino Di suga and lovely Christina with red hair scraped back and torn jeans boots and a petit leather jacket. Interesting tour of the cellars and saw the wine being pumped from the fermentation chamber to the storage vat. Down one the two levels to 50 metres below to the barriques chamber with hundreds of barrels. Tasting of Brunello which is 100% Sangiovese grape and has to be in barrel or bottle for at least 5 years to be called Brunello. If not then just vino Rosso. Tasting was informative but not overwhelmed by this red wine. Tends to be expensive beacause of the long maturing process. Onward and upward in the late afternoon sun with fabulous views over sandy coloured hills and vineyards. Hand picking grapes and tractor in the vineyards at the side of road I stopped and greeted 'come stai?' And was answered 'no bene'! Very long up in one and one but not too puffy; traffic a bit busy. At last at Montalcino and very pretty hotel just at the town gate with pool and views. Rooms with mini fresco details on the walls and sofas and chairs to match the pretty curtains. Quick swim very chilly then shower and walk to castle and cathedral through narrow streets with enoteca Brunello at every turn. Dinner near castle at Osteria - mushroom soup then delicious beef tongue with parsley sauce and Brunello of course ! But house red tasted just as good!
> Fri 11th 46 km Montalcino to Montepulciano
> A lovely brekka in a pretty dining room with views over the Tuscan hills and the swimming pool just below the window. We left by 10 am but without P and G as he was still not on full power. We headed down the hill a wonderful whizz for a few km then found a white road which climbed for a while then some ups and downs which were all fine and views around as usual of golden hills and terracotta villas and the characteristic cypress trees. Anna went a different way to avoid the gravel but we all met up after a stiff climb into Pienza for lunch. This had the narrow medieval streets we have come to expect and the Pope Pius II Piazza which was small but apparently perfectly formed. We explored the church which had tall elegant columns with pink marble and arches and ceiling painted in blues and gold. Lunch just outside the town gate. Salad of Pienza pecorino cheese for lunch and a white wine. Delicious gelato ginger flavour and dark chocolate. Onward and downward via a precipitous white strada followed by impossible ups and downs for about 10 km. Views of the hilltop towns were magnificent but the gravel and gradients kept us very occupied. I took a gentle right sideways topple when a motorcycle came towards me and my right foot was cleated. No great damage though so carried on but soon after I had a puncture which Bernard efficiently mended. After a steep upward haul we all arrived at Montepulciano grand piazza at about 6 pm. The way up was complicated through amazingly steep streets but the welcome from G and P was great and we took end of trip photos and sipped prosecco to celebrate. The Piazza Grande was impressive with lovely palazzio and cathedral. Downwards a daring angle through busy pedestrian streets to the oldest hotel the Marzocco. Rather austere marble and old photos and prints but huge rooms and very comfy. Out to meal across the road at 8 pm for usual antipasti and beef stew and wines served by helpful young Italian with good English . A nice meal followed by the traditional vino Santi and biscuits and also a sort of trifle made of the same was delicious. Bed at 11 pm.
> Sat 11th Oct Montepulciano and home
> Lie in. Brekka in bed thanks to thoughtful hubbie. Explored the city - cathedral, museum and palace and shops. 12.30 lunch with team at Osteria with a gorgeous view. Pick up at 3pm to Pisa. 2 hr drive then plane at 7.50 pm with 11 of the group then home by 10pm. End of a great trip.
The lamps are going out all over Europe; we shall not see them lit again in our lifetime - 3 August 1914
Sir Edward Grey, the foreign secretary, had just returned from telling parliament that war was inevitable, and was talking in his office with his friend John Spender, the editor of the Westminster Gazette.
"The lamps are going out all over Europe; we shall not see them lit again in our lifetime," Grey said.
In Flanders Fields
by John McCrae, May 1915
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
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